Monday 8 March 2010

Naming stones...

This summer we’ve decided to find as many standing stones on the peninsula as we are able – so, this weekend, armed with an OS map, we went hunting for them. East, along the lane, through the woods, and up and down the winding tracks of Carn Fadryn (the small mountain we can see from our cottage window), past the lodge park that was once Castel Madryn, almost through a field and there we stumbled across our first.

In the middle of a sheep feeding, turnip strewn field overlooking the sea we come across a solid, six feet tall menhir. Look closely and you can see his face, eye slanting towards a profiled nose, beneath that the scar of a slightly withered mouth that seems to be whispering something. What is it? Is it a name? We listen but we can’t make it out - so we name him for him, Loki Bautasten, after the mischievous shape shifter god of Norse mythology and the word for standing stone in Norwegian.

“Bye Loki” we call as we drive away and go in search of another.

Through the trees to a field of dark earth molehills surrounded by crow filled woods, we come across our second stone and, after taking a look, we name him Ehwaz, the rune for horse. The resemblance to a horse is at best passing but there is something of a creature’s head about the monolith, a slight touch of horse - perhaps a hint of dragon? A crow flies down as if to land on the stone as Holly takes her picture perching precariously on the boundary bank, she captures it in burred still motion for ever and I think; ‘this stone will stand when I and all the crows that ever were are dust.’ And with that warming thought we move on.


Along the B435 towards Y Ffor, some stones are map marked close to Moelypenmaen, deep in the tiny grass-grown tracks behind the mountain. We search and search, straining our necks to look over tall stone walls and then, through a gate, along a long lane towards a farm, we catch a glimpse of the pair - one tall and willowy slim and the other short and stunted - but too far away to photograph and no sign of a footpath - private land. So, we stop and get out of the car looking wistfully across the field towards them. Gog and Magog we decide and leave. At least we found them, unlikely pair as they are, feeding in a farmers field.

Through Y Ffor and down towards Pwllheli towards the sea - we are looking for another stone, one we must have passed at least a thousand times before. We’ve been told that there’s a standing stone hidden in the wall at Parc Bodegroes. We stare intently at a long, long, wall as we drive slowly by searching for the stone that we’ve been told about. And then, three feet tall from the ground, surrounded by rough hewn, dark grey, blocks of quite another time, we see her. The road is busy - so we drive slowly past, turn around then back and park by the side of the busy road to risk our lives as we take a picture.

We name her Luned, after the Welsh maiden who once gave Owain a ring of protection and invisibility. Legend tells that poor Luned was imprisoned in a stone vault by an evil witch, perhaps this is her - still imprisoned, turned all to stone. I think I can just make out the swirl of a face etched into its surface.

Luned – our final stone of the day. Five stones in less than two hours, a couple no more than a stone’s throw from our cottage and the others no more than a few miles.
Standing stones - they seem to be everywhere once you start to look…
Thanks to Holly for the fantastic photographs

4 comments:

  1. my pictures :) im actually a tad proud :)

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  2. Hurrah

    Managed to make another of those acount things so that I could have my say. not easy to do. Spooky things standing stones. Do you remember thst school trip to Stonehenge - in those day you could walk around the stones and touch them.

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  3. The last stone looks like a doorway. Maybe it is? I'm sure if you touched the stone at the right point it would let you in. What a trip that could be.

    There used to be a tribe of Hibernians that in the dark ages lived on your part of the Welsh ear.They called themselves and their sacred land Dumnanni and their warriors were called the Blood Shields aka Warriors of the Stones.
    The name Blood Shields came from the fact that their warriors would disembowel their enemies and daub their shields in the bloody entrails.

    They were greatly feared in both Hibernia and Wales and were at times a scourge over the western marches. They were also one of the few tribes by 500 AD that continued the Druadic Tradition.

    The Dumnanni had a powerful Druid called Laamerz who was greatly feared. He encouraged human sacrifice in order to appease the stones
    that gave the Dumnanni their strength. He also was the keeper of the great Caldron of Diwrnach the source of his druadic credence and power. Laamerz secreted the cauldron in Hibernia but only he knew its location.

    Unfortunately for Laamerz he openly encouraged the Blood Shields in to incursions against the lands of the High King Calwdvwich. Bad move! Calwdvwich High King of the Britons and great warrior decided enough was enough. He led his war band against the Dumnanni. With his great sword Caliburn and Wynebgwrthucher his trusty Shield he smite the Dumnanni King.

    Myrddin, Calwdvwich's trusted advisor persuaded the King not to kill Laamerz but instead torture him to find the location of the great caldron.

    One by one Myrddin cast down the great stones in the land of the Dumnanni until Laamerz could stand it no longer and he revealed
    the great cauldron's whereabouts. Just before Calwdvwich dispatched Laamerz the old Druid cursed the King and his descendents, and said he would come again from behind the stones and reap havoc upon his progeny.

    Myrddin chopped the remaining stones in half and many of Laamerz's favourites were hidden or surrounded by walls. Myrddin took the precaution of locking all the stones so that no one who touched them could open them to the
    underworld. However in later years after the High King's death Myrddin could not be entirely sure he locked them all.

    Silly old Wizard! The spells that Wizard's weave!

    My Response - Thanks Alan - yes I have heard of this before. I think I may have read it in a Harry Potter.

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  4. BTW - that last comment was an e-mail from Alan Spence - he is very knowledgeable about these things.

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